Saree Blouse Drafting - Tweaks & Tricks

Dear Readers,

I have been receiving queries relating to Saree Blouse Drafting, ever since i posted the Saree Blouse Draft Tutorial, many queries relate to Shoulder Width and armhole depth for dis-proportionate body measurements. The basic draft would work as such for a dress form with proportionate body measurement, when we make them for us less mortals with disproportionate body measurements, we need to tweak it a little, i would like to share some which i have learnt the hard way (Read after making a lot of ill-fitting blouses !!)


Lets first see the shoulders,


For Ladies with Narrow shoulders (petite ones like me! < 15"; actually i am just 13" )
Half Shoulder = (Bust Round /6) as it is or  add 1/2" if required


For people with broad shoulders (15" & above)
Half Shoulder = (Bust Round / 6) + 3/4"

The Standard Back Neck Depth would be Bust Round / 12. The above measurements are for standard back neck depth. If you make even deeper / closer neck then you will have to reduce it by 1/2 inch

For e.g.,Suppose your neck depth is 6" then, 
Half Shoulder = Half Shoulder - 1/2 inch

For e.g.,Suppose you keep high back neck of say 2" inches only then,
Half Shoulder = Half Shoulder + 1/2 inch

For the problem of cleavage getting shown while you bend and also to ensure that shoulder lies flat at the shoulder point on the neck side and does not lift up and reveal your bra strap, please look at the picture below (forgive me for such bad drawing, i am still learning ropes in photoshop)

Do you find these useful, are u gals interested in seeing more such tweaks, if so please let me know, i would like to get some feedback before i proceed further in this series of Tweaks & Tricks regarding Saree Blouse Cutting...