Dhoti Pant or Cowl Pant Tutorial

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Dear Readers,

Here is the Dhoti Pant / Dhoti Salwar / Cowl Pant tutorial as promised.

I have stitched this Dhoti Pant for my Daughter (4.5 yrs); and hence in the picture the tape measures will be relevant to her measurements. Please see the overview draft picture and register the draft with your measurements and then go to the fabric folding and cutting part.

For my Daughter these are measurements i have used

Seat round = 20 inches
inner leg seam length = 14 inches
Total crotch depth = 8 inches
Crotch depth on leg piece = 4.5 inches
waistband height = 3.5 inches + 1 1/4 inch
Waistband width = 24 + 1 inch for seam allowance; I have used single piece with one seam, using the seam joint as Center Back of waist band; you can have waistband in 2 pieces and hence will have 2 seams one each for center front & center back or you may even use them at sides.

Fabric required

For Adults - 2.5 to 3 metres of 44 inch width fabric
For kids - 1 - 1.5 metre of 22 inches of fabric width (44 inch may overwhelm tinty tots <= 6 years; above 7 you can try with full 44 inch width fabric)

Here is the Draft Overview, as to how it will look on paper, you do not need a paper draft for this, and can directly mark and cut in fabric, provided you following the folding and marking steps carefully.

Use an existing fitting pant to know the depth of the crotch and inner leg seam

Fabric width required is 44 " for adults and 22" for kids half the width of fabric is what i have used for my daughter, otherwise the entire width also can be used, but it will be too overwhelming for her slender frame.

 Please note the way fabric is to be folded, this is very important to get the right drape

Again on this folded fabric, lift from bottom corner and fold diagonally as shown in pic below

Now let us mark the leg opening,

Now let us mark the inner leg seam length along the selvage and open end side starting from point 3

Now mark the crotch depth from point 2  as 2-1 on the horizontal line  (Note the crotch depth is not entire crotch depth but entire crotch depth - waistband height)

Cut along 0-1-2-3-4; you will get 2 pieces of 0-1-2-3-4 with fold side bias on 0-4

Waistband measurements are as follows:
Length if it is single piece = Seat round  + 4 inches for ease
Length if there are 2 pieces = (Seat Round / 2) + 4 inches for ease

Height = 6.5 - 7 inches for Adults is normal measure; use your base measurements from fitting pants.

I have taken 3.5 inches for my DD who is 4.5 yrs old

Prepare the waistband by finishing the seams ; I have taken a single lengthy piece to cover seat round + 4 inches, in case you have 2 pieces then join both the seams;

Stitch Crotch seams of leg peices together

Finish the Leg opening by using bias strip facing as show below

The leg pieces when joined at crotch and with finished leg opening should look like this

Now let us join leg pieces to waistband. Please note the pleating procedure carefully as that determines the fall of drape.

Pin Wasitband joint seam to the Joined crotch seam. I am using the waistband as single piece with one seam and using it as center back, if you have 2 seams then you can either use the seams as center front and center back respectively. 

Pin the 0 point of leg piece to the side notch of the waistband

Pleat depth i have used is 1 inch knite pleat (2 inches in total depth for each pleat) for child
For Adults you can have 2 - 2.5 inch pleats depending on width of fabric you have (4 -5 inch of total pleat depth for each pleat)

Now start making pleats and pin them towards the crotch seam end , i.e., to the left of point 0. the pleats should end approx 1 1/4 inches before point 0 (2.5 inches in case of adults)

From point 0 , towards it right side the pleats should be in the opposite direction  starting from 2.5 inches from point 0 and going till the crotch seam.

Now lets work on the other leg piece. Pin the other crotch seam to center front of waistband and also pin point 0 on to the notch on the other side of waist band

Stitch the pleats in place; now that we have joined the waistband and leg piece together. Fold the waistband by 1/2 inch and fold 1/4 inch from top of fold to complete the waistband casing closure. You add tiestrings or elastic closure as desired. I have used elastic for the child; but on the Dhoti pant / Cowl pant made for self i have used fabric string closure ; for fabric string closure, leave a 3/8 opening at center front of waistband at the casing.

Now stitch the inner leg seams.

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My Dhoti Pants - Grown up version; to view more snaps and details please click HERE

Did you find this tutorial helpful, useful, do you find any issues in using it, any doubts, happy with it, not quite, whatever it is, please do respond with your comments. I will surely reply back in case you need some clarification.

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